1. Anonymous said: I love your art work so much :3 I was just wondering, how do you pick your colors? they are just so beautiful and unique and UGH i cant do colors and it pains me


    its about time i try to explain this as the obviously unprofessional i am. 

    i just pick colors depending on my mood, there are colors that look colder and warmer, so i take advantage of that 

    do you feel the colors. you gotta feel them. 

    then it’s time to pick the best colors for your piece, aka AVOID THESE IF YOU CAN. 

    sometimes they work tho, but why pick those when you can pick these

    they give you cuter colors and better color palettes.

    remember to feel how warm or cold or neutral you want anything to look. 

    that’s better looking than the MS Paint default palette. after some time you will be able to choose nice colors, give it a try. (you can also make a new layer with a solid color and set it to Overlay and it should help). 

    then the shading comes in, you’ll eventually realize some colors look better with others. BUT PLEASE PLEASE AVOID SHADING WITH BLACK/GREYS OR MAKING LIGHTS WITH WHITE.

    ew that looks so simple, why do that when yOU COULD BE SHADING WITH COLORS TOO??? 

    yeah that looks more lively. 

    i really like colors and that’s why i experiment with them a lot so to fully understand them you could either learn on your own by trying (like me) or you could take color classes, which is good too because they will teach you about other important stuff like this 

    but basically its just 

    don’t take me too seriously because i just fool around with colors hnnn. u3u 


  2. nayrosartrefs:

    Some awesome leg tutorials done by n3m0s1s.

    (via tetsuoppai)


  3. miss-love:



    by NicholasK.com

    For all your post-apocalyptic Resident Evil world, LotR travelling to Mordor, and Assassin Creed needs.

    Give to me

    I just want to dress like this all the time

    (via wewillnotbedefeated)


  4. Anonymous said: How do you draw people sitting? When I draw people sitting, the first part of the leg (that is going forward, not hanging down) always looks really weird. Please answer ASAP. Thank you!


    im sorry im not really sure how to explain it??? LOOK UP REFERENCES AND TRY TO SEE THE UNDERLYING SHAPES YEAH


  5. Pencil
    Ink Pen
    Round Brush
    Flat Brush
    Before texture
    Texture with no blending
    Texture set to Overlay


    I’ve been getting a lot of asks lately about the brushes and textures I use in my work, so here’s a BIG FAT REFERENCE POST for those of you who were curious! Bear in mind that I’m really lazy and don’t know what half the settings do, so don’t be afraid to experiment to figure out what works best for you :>



    I use the pencil tool with SAI’s native paper texture both for sketching and for applying opaque color with no blending. Lower opacities give it the feel of different pencil hardnesses, while full opacity makes it more like a palette knife, laying down hard-edged, heavy color for detail work or eventual blending with other brushes.

    Ink Pen

    Mostly made this because I’m lazy and I didn’t want to have to keep turning my textures off/opacity up when I wanted to ink something (even though I don’t do it very often), or lay down flat colors. I find the line quality to be much more crisp than Photoshop, and you can manually adjust in-program stabilization to help smooth out hand wobbles.

    Round Brush

    The plain ol’ brush tool acts as sort of an in-between for me in terms of brush flow. It’s heavier than my usual workhorse brush, for faster color application and rough blending, but not as heavy as the pencil tool, which has no blending at all. I like to use the canvas texture on this brush to help break up the unnatural smoothness that usually accompanies digital brushes, but it works just fine without.

    Flat Brush

    A brush tool set to flat bristle is by far my favorite to paint with. I don’t use any textures with it because I think the shape of the brush provides enough of that by itself. I use it for everything from rough washes to more refined shaping and polish. It’s just GREAT.


    Best used for smooth blending, washes, gradients, and smoky atmospheric effects.


    Basically a grittier version of the watercolor tool, because too much smoothness weird me out. Good for clouds and fog, as the name suggests, or just less boring gradient fills.


    To further stave off the artificially smooth look of digital painting, I almost always overlay some sort of paper texture, and it’s almost always this one, which I scanned and edited myself. You’re all welcome to use it, no permission required!

    Using overlays in SAI is just as easy as using them in Photoshop. Just paste the texture into its own layer above everything you want it to apply to, and change the layer mode to Overlay. That’s it!

    Want a more prominent texture? Up the contrast. Something more subtle? Lower the contrast or reduce the layer opacity. You can also use a tinted overlay to adjust the overall palette and bring a little more color unity to an otherwise disparate piece! Just be aware that too much texture can hurt the readability of the work beneath it, so I’d err on the side of subtlety.

    Hope that helps!


    (via bleach-at-the-beach)


  6. deltaink:


    I’ve been asked a lot about how I draw hoods, mostly Talon’s hood, so I hope this helps a little? Just a pretty basic thing but hey there ya go

    Hoods are pretty cool, they usually have a lot of variety in how they can look (and sometimes people even wear two hoods at once) so just get creative with it and have fun


    (via remsweep)


  7. toskakid:

    i made a tutorial for male crotches




  10. artist tips





    don’t save as jpeg

    as a former yearbook editor and designer, let me explain this further

    if youre only planning on posting your art online, them please save it as .png ;this is also better for transparencies as well


    please, if youre planning of printing your art, NEVER use png. it makes the quality of the image pretty shitty. use jpeg or pdf instead. and always set your work at 300dpi to get a better printing quality - this means, the images are crisper and sharper and theres no slight blurriness. i had a talk with my friend who is currently taking design, and pdf is much better to use when youre working with a bigger publishing company because it still has the layers intact, but if youre only planning on printing your stuff at staples or at some small publishing store, the jpeg is the way to go.

    this has been a public service announcement

    Remember kids: .jpeg is for photos, .png is for ‘graphic’ art.

    If your art has many fields of flat color, saving as .jpeg will create very obvious and ugly artifacts. But if it has lots of fiddly areas with numerous changes in color/luminosity from pixel to pixel, that’s exactly the sort of thing .jpeg was designed to do.

    The thing with .jpeg is that, eventually, the quality of it will wear away the more you open it. If you want a long-lasting digital file, save them in .tiff form or as a PDF. 

    (via toskakid)