1. mightyhealthyquest:

    IT’S ALWAYS TEA TIME!

    (via theabominablemummy)

     

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  3. belt:

    I like to have white or ambient noise playing while I study, so I thought I’d share a list of my favourite websites in case anyone else was interested.

    1. Rainymood - Allows you to play rain, with suggestions of ambient music to play at the same time. Has an iOS and Android app, my personal favourite.
    2. Calm - A visually beautiful website. Provides moving backgrounds and an option for guided calm which allows you to immerse yourself in the music and to relax. Has a free app for iPhone. Another one of my favourites.
    3. Showertime - The experience of taking a shower without the water. Allows you to control features such as length of shower, size of room, water pressure, etc.
    4. Coffitivity - The background noise of a coffee shop. Allows you to choose between different locations such as lunchtime lounge, morning murmur  etc. Has an app for iOS and Android as well as a desktop app for OS X.
    5. Soundrown - A website with a sleek minimalist design, allows you to choose between rain, coffee shop, ocean, fire, bird noises, or a combination of the five.
    6. Relaxing Snow - Visually beautiful falling snow, the website gives you the opinion to play music with the scenery, or to choose your own.
    7. Raining.Fm - This website gives you the ability to adjust the rain to exactly how you’d like it, with options to tweak thunder, rain and storm noises. Has an app for iOS and Android, as well as a timer and snooze option.
    8. Rain For Me - Simple rain effects with the option to download the audio files for offline listening.
    9. Snowy Mood - Inspired by Rainy Mood, this website really makes you feel like it’s winter. Perfect for playing while snuggled up in a warm bed.
    10. Rainy Cafe - Combines the sounds of a bustling cafe setting with the sounds of drizzling rain. Allows you to select the volume of each setting, or turn one off completely.

    (via uss-damnitjim)

     

  4. dizylizy:

    e1n:

    I think regardless of style or personality, your character should run properly. Awkward run ruins everything.

    Don’t believe me? Try running the wrong way, see how far that gets you.

    I have this rule memorized and I’ll STILL get this wrong from time to time.

    I’ll be staring at the pic all “….WHY THE EFF DOES THIS NOT LOOK RIGHT?”

    and then I’ll notice the problem and proceed to berate myself for an hour.

    (via sweetsweeps)

     

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  6. thaxted:

    i-want-cheese:

    How to balance a checkbook

    Edit: Follow-up post here.

    Edit x2: Made another slideshow that addresses some points that have been brought up.

    Edit x3: I continue to make slideshows that will help you successfully adult.

    Reblubbing because this is a pretty decent and very simple intro to budgeting which doesn’t require you to develop a complex spreadsheet and mono-maniacally track every single transaction for years (unless you are like me and would do that as an enjoyable hobby).

    For anyone having trouble with reading from the images, it breaks down thusly (this is a condensed interpretation not an exact transcript):

    • it’s important to balance your checkbook so that you can cover your monthly expenses without encountering expensive overdraft fees (because your bank will let you take money out of your account that you don’t even have and will charge you for it, funtimes) (also “balanced” means you aren’t spending more money than you get, that’s all)
    • to figure out how to balance your monthly income/expenses, do this:
    • 1. Use your debit card not your credit card (credits cards are useful, but they are credit not money and will make things more complicated by adding in extra steps while you sort out balancing your budget. Use credit cards later once you’ve got this down. Debit also makes it easier to track your purchases than cash unless you are hanging onto every receipt.)
    • 2. Set up your bills on autopay, either through your bank or through the service providers (this is EVERYTHING that is a bill—rent or mortgage, utilities, phone, internet, loan repayments, child support, etc. And your credit card bill if you are using credit cards. That’s why credit cards will make more work at this stage—they are an expense NOT income.)
    • 3. Take a month and cut back all unnecessary spending as much as you can. The point is not to torture yourself but to give yourself a baseline of what you actually HAVE to spend in order to get through the month and what is left over. (If weird emergency expenses come up in that month, deal with it and then try to figure out what you would have had left over if that hadn’t happened)
    • 4. At the end of the month, figure out how much is left over. If there’s nothing left over, you probably need to figure out how to reduce your bills more or increase your income or both and if you cannot do either of those things then you are in a bind beyond what basic budgeting can deal with. Yayyy poverty in a capitalist system. :( I’m sorry and it’s not your fault. Also, if you can use debit, this is where knowing EXACTLY where your money went comes in handy because it helps you figure out where to pare down. If you had to use cash, then make sure you kept all your receipts to go over.
    • 5. Assuming you do have money left over, put as much as you can into an emergency savings account until you build up enough to cover those random emergency expenses (or, if you are ambitious, enough to cover your essentials for a few months in case you lose your job or ability to work). After you’ve built up a buffer fund, then from there on in, use some of that money to keep adding to your savings (the guide says “half”, which is a good idea especially if you don’t earn much—the more savings the better, tbh, but I’ve seen 20% recommended as the minimum to set aside),and with the rest…
    • 6. Use whatever is left over as your fun spending money for the next month. As long as your expenses and income are relatively stable and predictable, you should be able to be confident that at the end of the month your bills will get paid and you won’t be going into expensive overdraft.

    Another tip from me is if you have UNSTABLE income (seasonal or otherwise unpredictable) then you need to do a bit more work. Either figure out your expenses during one of your leanest months (safest approach) and then whatever extra you get in the good months is bonus savings (maybe toward a special big purchase?), or, if you are feeling riskier, then try to work out an average between the lean and the good months and build up a buffer during the high times that you can rely on when things slow down.

    Also, when you ARE using a credit card (which is a good idea in order to get some kind of credit history so that you can be approved for larger loans when you need them later), some ways to do this in a manner that doesn’t get out of control is:

    • Get the card and don’t use it because just having it will help start establishing your history. There shouldn’t be any penalties for inactivity, though check with your provider just in case. This is the best bet for someone who doesn’t have a regular income. My first credit card was something I got so I could go on a trip and have it as a back-up option for expenses—I didn’t use it regularly for years after that.
    • Once you’ve got a consistent income, use the card regularly but always pay it off in full at the end of the month. If there are rewards on the card, then you can get a small advantage you wouldn’t from straight debit or cash transactions. But don’t use the full limit of your card each time—I’ve read somewhere that you aren’t supposed to be using more than 30-50% of your credit regularly in order to have a decent credit score. That shit is more complicated than alchemy so I’m not totally sure, but you definitely don’t get brownie points for using your full limit every time.
    • For the even more stout-hearted, use the card regularly but occasionally pay slightly less than the full amount in order to accrue some interest. I suggest this only because my sister ran into a problem where basically because the bank NEVER made any money off of her card, they wouldn’t approve her for a credit limit increase when she needed a new computer. It’s surreal but it does happen. I deliberately paid some interest a few times years and years ago (less than $10 worth) and I keep getting pre-approved for ridiculous limit increases (which I mostly ignore because credit isn’t money—it’s just a relatively flexible expense) because who even knows.
    • ALWAYS PAY YOUR MINIMUM. You don’t have to pay the full amount if you want to tease your lender into thinking they can make money off of you, but if you fail to pay your minimum (usually a small fraction of what you owe in total), you will torpedo your credit rating right there.
    • If this sounds complicated that’s because it is and credit cards are designed to make you bad with money while simultaneously punishing you for being bad with money because that’s how they make credit card companies wealthy. :/ Anyway, you can also build a credit history instead by taking out a small short-term loan (by small I mean in the $1000 range probably? Banks will have a limit on how small they’ll actually deal with, but enough to buy a new laptop or something or a car loan is also a popular choice), getting as low an interest rate on it as you can, and paying it off in full and without missing a minimum. The “history” part of a credit history really counts, so doing this early is a great idea, especially if you’re young enough to have a parent co-sign which can get you a lower interest rate (assuming they have decent credit scores).

    (via sweetsweeps)

     


  7. feeling anxious? stressed? need a distraction?

     

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  9. curryuku:

    foervraengd:

    elliotoille:

    felt like doing a tutorial thingy (what should I call these??) again! I think I’ll make a tag for these in case I do more. This time I’m gonna talk a little about how angles affect how clothing falls aaaand stuff. here we go…

    Given: The first drawing of these three is how the clothing naturally wants to fall, how it is made to be shaped. Or, whichever pose you could take that will give the garment the least amount of creases.

    • I’ll actually talk about the green first; this is a representation of the hip box, which itself is a representation/simplification of your whole pelvis area. You see how your legs and hip box oppose angles here. in almost all poses except standing straight, your hip box and legs will create a bent angle, which affects how clothes fall.
    • The red/blue is the skirt (obvs), the red specifically is the ellipses of the top and bottom openings of the skirt. This skirt is very stiff material for the sake of this example, so notice how the two ellipses always match eachother. the top ellipse is where the skirt is actually attached to the body, so it’s the boss; the bottom ellipse will more or less do exactly what the top one does.
    • here’s where the fact that the legs and hip box are at different angles becomes important. The top of the skirt is attached to the hip box, but the bottom ellipse is in the realm of the legs. The orange lampshade shape diagram there is a simplification of this. It is very much like if you were to tilt a lampshade. The side you are bending towards will hug the body and create creases. The side you are bending away from will fall off the body in a straight line.

    imageimage

    It even works with pants, though as the bottom ellipse(s) gets farther away from the top there’s more room for the garment to get distorted by gravity, perspective, and bent knees and such. But with this last example you can really see how the side touching the legs really hugs the body underneath, whereas the other side hangs off of it in a straighter, crease-less line.

    Dresses are a little different because their top ellipse is attached to your torso/ribcage mass rather than the hip box.

    image

    Much of the time you get the same result as with a skirt. However if the hip box and ribcage mass are opposed sideways rather than forward or backward, it becomes a little tougher:

    image

    You can see in the third drawing how a shirt and a skirt together would fall in opposite ways if your body is bent sideways. If the shirt is long, just like I mentioned above about the long pants, there is more distortion of this effect.

    I’ll take what I said above, “The side you are bending away from will fall off the body in a straight line”, and add a bit to the end: “… until it hits something.” In the fourth drawing above, the garment is falling off the body in a straight line on the right side. If you lengthen the garment:

    image

    The straight side continues down as normal until it hits the leg and becomes the body-hugging side. in response to that, the body-hugging side from farther up becomes the straight side when it falls off the hip.

    Aaand with that I think I’ll stop lol. I hope that wasn’t hard to understand. It’s easy to do yourself, just wear a skirt or some loose pajama pants and take hula poses in the mirror lol.

    For all of you who have been longing for ME to make a tutorial about clothes, I truly recommend you to read this post. Since it covers the area in clothing that many other tutorials never mention, clothing is more than just “drawing folds and wrinkles”, it’s about knowing how the design and the behavior of our bodies affect it.

    So yeah.

    Read this. Please. It’s so easy explained.

    rebloging for future reffs

    (via sweetsweeps)

     

  10. sauerkrauts:

    My passion is learning new languages, so here are some good sites to help you learn the following languages!  Please feel free to add on!

    Hey also that picture up there is transparent, which is pretty fucking awesome.

    (via uss-damnitjim)